When I first moved to Santa Cruz de la Sierra I was admittedly skeptical of my new home in Bolivia. Where were the towering peaks of the Andes mountains? And the perilous landscapes I came to expect from the images of Lonely Planet and National Geographic?
And seriously, where are all of these cows coming from?
As seemingly the only blonde gringa east of the salt flats, I didn’t take comfort in the heaps of tourists exploring the city because there were none. I immediately felt cramped in the steamy city and confined to public pools while seeking refuge from the heat.
And then I opened my eyes to my surroundings. Like, really opened them. I saw how the dry Chaco (forest) of the east is just as beautiful and unforgiving as the more-travelled Atacama Desert is to the southwest. And how navigating rivers while fishing for piranha and surubí (giant Amazon catfish) is just as thrilling as navigating “death road” by bicycle.
I even found the herds of cows sharing the road to be charming.
But what I have come to love most about Bolivia, and especially my home in Santa Cruz de la Sierra, is that it is so much more diverse than what I expected. It’s not all bowler hats and potato sacks.
In fact, it’s a shame to see this area of the country overlooked by travelers who are unaware of what to see and where to go when in the department (state) of Santa Cruz and it’s capital city of Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
So I urge you, for an authentic Bolivian experience, hop off the gringo trail and explore the lesser known that is the Bolivian orient!
For further convincing, here are 7 reasons why Santa Cruz should be included on your itinerary to Bolivia:
1. Access some of the country’s most spectacular wildlife and national parks.
The department of Santa Cruz boasts some of the most pristine parks in all of Bolivia, and they are much more accessible than you may think! Within a day’s drive—or bumpy bus ride—from Santa Cruz de la Sierra, you can explore one of three national parks, soak in hot springs after hiking up waterfalls, and hike through some of the most bio-diverse forests in South America. The only place in Bolivia where you can observe condors in their natural habitat is a mere two hours from the city!
Get lost, with a guide of course, in the remote Noel Kempff Mercado National Park (Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado), a UNESCO World Heritage Site that encompasses five ecosystems throughout its great expanse, ranging from dense, Amazonian rain forest to wet savanna and dry plateaus. For the animal lovers, check out Amboro National Park (Parque Nacional Amboro), a wildlife watching haven bordering both the Andes mountains and Amazon basin, and home to monkeys, tapirs, rare bear species, and over 800 bird species. Known for its Jaguar population, Kaa-Iya National Park (Parque Nacional Kaa-Iya) is a must for anyone interested in observing mammals of the Chaco (dry forest) such as giant armadillo, the endangered Chacoan peccary, puma, ocelots and much more.
LOCAL TIP: Let the Aussie/Bolivian team of Nick’s Adventures take you on a tour through Kaa-Iya to not only spot jaguars in their natural habitats, but to learn more about wildlife and large cat conservation in Bolivia. Camp among giant ferns in the cloud forest of Amboro National Park from August to November when rainfall and temperatures are low.
2. Follow the footsteps of iconic historical figures.
While museums may not be Santa Cruz’s forté, there is definitely no shortage of historical monuments and fascinating cultural landmarks to be explored in the region. Time travel with a visit to the pre-Colombian ruins of El Fuerte, a fortress built by the Chané people and later inhabited by the Inca. The religious site was even once thought to have been connected to aliens!
Before Santa Cruz de la Sierra grew to the metropolis as we know it today, the tropical capital was once part of the Gran Chiquitania, an area of remote Spanish settlements and Jesuit Missions in the steamy lowlands of the Orient. The 16th-century Spanish conquistador Ñuflo de Cháves introduced the name Chiquitos, meaning ‘little ones’ around the time he established the “original” capital (Santa Cruz la vieja) some 250 kilometers from where it has grown today. The Jesuit Missions of Chiquitos have over time become a popular tourist destination, as six of the missions have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and have remarkably maintained the feel for what Santa Cruz really was like a mere fifty years ago.
Follow the footsteps of the famous revolutionary Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara and his band of guerrilla fighters just outside the town of Vallegrande, a town which formerly served as headquarters to Che’s guerrilleros and ultimately, his resting place after his execution in La Higuera in 1967. While there is a small shrine and other relics in the classroom where Che was killed, the bulk of landmark’s commemorating the guerrillero are back in Vallegrande at the Museo Municipal Ruta del Che Guevara (more of a one-room photo gallery), Hospital Señor de Malta (where you can visit the laundry room where his death was put on public display and exhibit before later being buried), and Che’s Mausoleum (the site of Che’s grave at the edge of an airstrip before it was unearthed and sent to Cuba in 1997). Tour operators offer hikes to other notable sites in the area and every year in October a pilgrimage and festival are held in his honor.
3. Party like a cruceño in one of the fasting growing cities in the world.
In a metropolis of nearly two million people—and steadily increasing as the 14th fastest growing city in the world, source—you can almost guarantee there is a party happening at any given hour of the day, and locals love a good reason to celebrate! From afternoon churrascos to week-long festivals, Bolivia’s most cosmopolitan city has something to offer everyone when it’s time to unwind and let loose. Year-round the city center is pulsing with discos, high-end nightclubs, and themed bars for party-goers to sip on chuflays and Paceñas. There’s also no shortage of citywide festivals from month to month, including Carnaval (February/March), Fiesta de la Cruz (May), and the four-week celebration throughout September in honor of Santa Cruz in which you can catch outdoor concerts in the Plaza 24 de Septiembre, stroll the FexpoCruz (a state-fair of sorts), and indulge in local dishes during Día de Tradición.
LOCAL TIP: Hit up the new and trendy boliche Brown Fox on any day of the week from 6-8 p.m. for 2×1 artisanal cervezas (score!) and Caminito on Fridays for live music and an even livelier, young crowd on Saturdays.
4. Fill up on achachairú.
Fruit lovers, rejoice! If taste testing exotic produce from markets around the world is your thing (and why wouldn’t it be?), then this is the one region you can’t skip! Behold, achachairú. It’s the crown jewel of all tropical fruit in South America and can only be found and grown in the heart of Bolivia. Known as the Bolivian mangosteen, the sweet and sour flesh of the achachairú takes over the Santa Cruz culinary scene during harvest season from December to February. Locals love juicing the pulp, using it to flavor ice cream, freeze into popsicles, spread as warm jam, and drizzle over main dishes. I hear there is even a wine in the works!
LOCAL TIP: Get the most out of your achachairú experience with a visit to Porongo’s annual festival honoring the fruit’s harvest in January, just 20 km from Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
5. Admire the beauty of the orient.
Even if you aren’t deep in the jungle or meandering about one of the aforementioned national parks, there is still plenty of natural beauty to behold around every corner you turn in Santa Cruz. Along the two-hour drive alone towards Samaipata there are three different waterfalls to dip your toes in (Espejillos, Jardín de las Delicias, and Las Cuevas) as well as a volcanic crater, known as Laguna Volcán, and the incredible sandstone cliffs of Refugio Los Volcanes! Heading east towards Brazil towers the giant and sacred slab of red rock known as La Torre, an iconic marker of the Chochis area and nearby Jesuit mission town of Santiago de Chiquitos. Further ahead, just past Roboré and the great Valley Tucavaca (both underrated hiking hotspots), lay the nation’s largest hot springs and thermal waters in Aguas Calientes. For the ultimate adventure, give sand boarding a go at the sand dunes of Las Lomas de Arena, some 30km from Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
6. Savor a great cup of coffee.
It may not be obvious, but Brazil, Colombia, and Peru aren’t the only South American countries producing rich beans for a quality brew. Just two hours outside of Santa Cruz de la Sierra rests Buena Vista, a picturesque town adding flavor to the Bolivian coffee market. Experience the coffee culture of Café Buena Vista with a plantation tour and sampling of the region’s exquisite coffee varieties.
The city of Santa Cruz itself is full of cafés that are often best enjoyed in the late afternoon during tea time, a local tradition bringing cruceños together over horneados (savory baked goods) and tecitos. Head over to Vainilla to indulge in the Buena Vista coffee and their delicious cheesecake.
7. Experience the local ‘Camba’ culture.
Throughout the eastern lowlands, you’ll find the locals, affectionately known as cambas, to be diverse, energetic, and extremely proud people. They revel in their country roots and take tradition seriously. It’s no secret they pride themselves in the way they express themselves through their language, sense of style and culture that is anything but the Bolivian stereotype. Indulge in their customs and it won’t be long before you’re welcomed with an ¡Oye, che! ¡Qué camba que sos, puej!
Show of hands! Who has been to Bolivia and/or traveled to Santa Cruz? For those planning a visit, is Santa Cruz in your upcoming itinerary? For those that have been, what tips do you have for visiting the tropical lowlands?
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This is an awesome quick guide to Santa Cruz! As a cruceño I feel proud to read about all the beauties that this land has to offer. Very cool! Congrats on a very well written piece!
Thanks for the love! Happy to hear I’ve done right by the locals 😉
Hey there! Great post – the first I’ve read on your blog! Great that you are really getting to know some fantastic places other than the main stream destinations in Bolivia. What brought you to the country to live as an expat? What’s life there like?
Hey Samantha, welcome to my blog! I moved here 2.5 years ago and it’s still crazy to me that very few travelers make their way to this side of the country when there is so much to experience! Life here can be challenging at times (in the same ways any developing country presents challenges with economic disparity, cleanliness, congestion, corruption, etc.), but it’s a place where you can make anything happen, too. If you want to start a business, no problem! It’s fairly easy and people will be very receptive to your good ideas! There is a lot of opportunity here and best of all, many places to get out and get lost in beautiful countryside! Thanks for reading 🙂 xoxo
I like the look of that party scene! I really want to go to Bolivia some day!
Hahaha Bolivia sure is a party! Hope you can make it here, Dannielle!
That photo is from Carnaval, the city stops tree days for partying, downtown is close and many comparsas dispute between who is having the best parqueo.
Looks like a lot of good reason to go! I never been but hopefully one day.
I hope I have done my job in convincing you!
What a great city and wonderful tips for exploring the area. This was not on my radar but it is now! Thanks for the inspiration!
Happy to hear it, Natalie!!
Love the waterfall, hate Che. Bolivia is known to me mainly through the case briefs I’ve had to read. Horrible human rights and environmental regulations. It’s incredible what happens out there when a country doesn’t have adequate regulations/enforcement.
Hi Jessica. I love to take on active adventures when I travel, but I have not yet been to Bolivia. Thanks for highlighting some things I definitely would enjoy. But could I really catch a pirahna? Hmmmmm. I don’t know if I want to do that! Peace. — JR
YES! You can 100% go fishing for piranha! Much like people hang deer racks on display after hunting, here they save the teeth of the largest piranha they have caught, and I have a couple! It’s not as scary as it seems 😀
That waterfall! We’re expats in Seoul right now, so Bolivia is a bit far away but maybe once we move back to the states!
I’ll have to read up on South Korea and Seoul over on your blog, I have been thinking about going for a long time now! I hear such great things. Let’s do a exchange haha!!
Sometimes it is all about getting off the typical tourist trail and discovering something new, which might end up being the best thing you did.
I couldn’t agree more, Laura! True exploration begins with the unknown!
Sounds like a fab spot to base yourselves! So many expats in Bolivia base themselves in Sucre, this sounds so much better!
Simone x | The Aussie Flashpacker
It’s true – Sucre is expat central! It’s hard to blame them though when the city itself is stunning and there is so little information available about Santa Cruz. Hopefully this will get the ball rolling and inspire more people to check out this region when looking to stay in Bolivia long term! Thanks for reading!
Hi Jessica!
Thank you so much for giving our side of the country an insightful and truthful depiction. El oriente boliviano is often overlooked in the stereotypical portrait of what Bolivia is. People rarely seem to realize that over half of the country isn’t mountains, llamas, and coca leaves. As you know, the cultural contrast that exists between El Altiplano (highlands), and the Oriente (eastern lowlands) is dramatic to put it mildly. We’re all Bolivian, true- but, it’s the difference in our land that truly sets Bolivia apart from many other Latin American nations. I’m so glad that you’re getting to taste and feel the warmth of our side of the country 🙂
If you really want to get people to visit Santa Cruz, I’d recap what Carnaval is like in the city, and what wonderful culinary traditions reside in the east. As a camba living in Boston, it’d be nice to hear your opinion of it.
Muchas gracias de nuevo por tus lindas palabras. Por favor deleitá de un rico masaco con mocochinchi unos de estos días. Saludos!
-Fed
Lovely descriptions! That fruit (however hard it is to pronounce) looks divine! The number one question on our mind is made you leave everything and move to Bolivia? It must’ve been tough for the first few months we’re sure.
Hahaha! I found love in not just the countryside but a certain cruceño as well 🙂 The first YEAR was difficult and living here always presents a new challenge… you just have to go with the flow and find plenty of time away from the chaos in one of the places I have just highlighted! Thanks for reading, safe travels!
I cannot tell you how much I miss achachairú, thank you for brightening my day with warm nostalgia. I lived in the quinto anillo in 09-10 and am planning to come back after I graduate. 🙂
Happy to hear it! You’ll find not much has changed yet EVERYTHING has changed haha! The city already looks very different from five years ago but is still the same warm, and inviting pueblito that you are familiar with 🙂
I have wanted to visit Bolivia for a long time but I will be honest and say that was only really to see the salt flats, now I see there is so much more to experience! That waterfall is just stunning.
Amazing pics!:) I’ll be sure to visit Santa Cruz when in Bolivia 🙂
You paint an amazing picture. I hope to visit someday, and I will continue to read your writing.
Thanks, John! Can’t wait for you to come visit!
Recently read ao much aboit Bolivia…. looks like a good place to hike with those stunning views and nature.
You have to make the trip sooner than later before all of the tourists catch on to this lesser-traveled country!
These are very valid reasons. You’ve given me such an amazing description that I definitely wouldn’t want to miss out when I go to Bolivia!
It’s nice to open your eyes and find that you’ve stumbled upon an interesting spot that’s off the tourist trail. After reading your post, I definitely want to visit.
Pretty awesome!! What i believe and i feel about my city is one thing but read or listen what another person feels is incredible and is amazing!!thks and Viva Santa Cruz!!!!!
Me alegra, Rosa! Gracias por leer y por su apoya!! Viva Santa Cruz!
I have a friend who fell in love with Bolivia. Since then, I always wanted to see this lovely place! Thank you for reminding me!
It’s a beautiful place, that’s for sure!
Awesome post and lovely photos! First time I’ve visited your blog and I think i’ll be back for more! Been wanting to travel across South America for so long and your post will surely put Bolivia and Santa Cruz on my map. Loved the insider local tip too! 🙂 Happy travels!
Thank you so much, Karla!! I’m super excited that Bolivia is now on your radar, it’s an incredible South American experience to invest in! Heading over to check out your travels now 🙂 Keep in touch!
Okay, when can I visit?!
NOW, right meow. Besos!
May I just say… I really love your blog! So glad I came across it!
I always wanted to go to Bolivia since I meet a lot of Bolivianos in Spain. They are so humble and friendly people, and that really made me curious about the country.
Hope I will make it one day!
Thank you, Tatiana! I’m glad you enjoy my humble home on the Internet 🙂 It’s great you had an opportunity to get to know some Bolivians abroad, they really are beautiful people and very kind. Happy trails, hope you make it here!
Beautiful photos and for surely when I am visiting Bolivia I will not miss this gem. How does that fruit taste like? Looks very interesting!
The fruit is fleshy, and it is both sweet and sour. More on the sweet side, as it isn’t sour like a lemon, but it has a nice acidic punch to it and is DELICIOUS!! A must try when you visit Bolivia but it only is grown in this region!
I’ve been to many countries in South America, but haven’t made it to Bolivia. Based on this list, I think I need to remedy that soon! Thanks for sharing.
So glad to hear it, Sean!
I wish I’d allowed more time to see Bolivia last year. I don’t think I took enough time to get to know it. And although I did visit Santa Cruz is was only for a evening before catching the death train to Brazil!
Haha there is a death train to Brazil?! This I NEED to experience at least once while I am living here 😀 Santa Cruz will be waiting for you when you return!
This place looks beautiful! I had never heard of a achachairú! I want to eat it
Come to santa cruz and travel through the different points of interest, you will find beautiful scenes, eat wonderful meals,and will find it inexpensive to say the least. Have a Great time in Santa cruz.
I lived in Santa Cruz for eight months, and yes, you have to go during achachairú season. I think it tastes like a grape but has the texture of a pear or kiwi. Just my opinion. If you enjoy shopping, there are also a lot of second hand markets where you can spend all day digging through piles of clothes to find treasures. I miss it. However, I would not suggest traveling there with small kids…especially if you’re used to American safety. 😉
I moved to Santa Cruz in late July and found it equally uninspiring at first. However, the more I explore the region, the more I’m coming to love it. Thanks for sharing your trips and tips!
Couldn’t agree more, Amelia. It took a while for me to find Santa Cruz’s charm, but I’m happy I did! Are you still in the city? And more importantly, do you teach yoga here?! (I can see it in your email jeje) Saludos
Viva Santa Cruz! 🙂 Thank you so much for writing this article about my beautiful country. I miss it every single day. And, you also mentioned my favorite fruit! Keep enjoying Santa Cruz for us that are far away. Also, you should try “ambaibas”, it’s another one of my favorite fruits and it’s delicious!
I’m glad you enjoyed the post, Andrea! I’ve really come to love SCZ and hope I can encourage others to spend time here to learn about such a beautiful part of the country. I have tried ambaibas! They are those long, dangly finger-like fruit that grow from the trees right? Not too bad!
Oh how I desperately want to visit El Fuerte!
This post has me longing to visit Bolivia! Can you shed some light on costs for National Park tours from Santa Cruz?
I used to live in the Santa Cruz Mountains, and your news about the antique fair makes me so noaiglstc for one of the country’s most beautiful spots. I look forward to your photos of this year’s event. Thanks for hosting today’s party.
I ❤ Santa Cruz… i am Portuguese i went to SC three times and i visir amazing places like Samanpaita and Lomas de arena and i saw amazing landscapes. It’s cheap xomparing to Lisbon and i made friends… now i feel a little bit camba. I will return every year… Te Mo Santa Cruz.
Hi Jessica, great post! I’m heading to Bolivia in a few weeks and have been researching places to stay a while and study Spanish. In an effort to get off the gringo trail and experience something much more authentic I’ve been looking into alternative places (other than Sucre) to do this. Your post has inspired me to spend some time in Santa Cruz – so thank you!
Awesome article, thanks for the tips! Indeed, Bolivia a beautiful country in South America that is bisected by the majestic Andes, and is home to the gorgeous Lake Titicaca which straddles Peru and Bolivia.
However, there are tourist-targeting scammers and petty crime to be wary of.
Do be wary of the fraudulent prison tour, overcharging vendors, medical bill extortion, longhauling taxis, bag theft, hotel tax, corrupt police officers and many more!
Loved your blog. Born and raised in Santa Cruz, I would like more turists visiting Bolivia go further the altiplanic west and into sunny Santa Cruz and get yo know its natural and amazing Wild Life.